Travel to Iguazu Falls; Randall Shirley's Suggestions

Short and Sweet: this is among the most amazing things I've EVER seen. Iguazu Falls is the world's 2nd largest falls (after Victoria Falls in Africa), and is twice as high and 4 times longer than Niagara.

This spot alone is worth the price of a plane ticket to Argentina. Spend at least 2 days here!

Add in the stunning jungle scenery and wildlife (birds including toucans, alligators, a zillion butterflies), and wow, wow, wow. It's a 2-hour flight from Buenos Aires, and on LAN Argentina cost a bit over $200 round trip.

You experience Iguazu up close in a way you won't see at other falls--via a series of metal walkways that literally take you to the edge of the falls. Additionally, you can go on jet boat rides, jungle truck safaris, and even rafting among wildlife above the falls (a substantial distance above, mind you). The price for a Green Passport allowing all 3 of those adventures is about $40.

If Iguazu looks familiar, it's because you've seen the film The Mission, where Jeremy Irons repeatedly climbs up the rocks between the face of some of the falls. Stunningly beautiful on screen, even better in person (although you won't be climbing on them).

If it's raining at Iguazu, you may get the falls all to yourself for a while. My partner and I had the Devil's Throat section, all alone, for about 15 minutes in light rain. When we came back in the sun there were hundreds of other visitors, including groups of school kids and tourists from all over the planet.

Iguazu Falls is 70% in Argentina, 30% in Brazil. I only visited the Argentine side; people who were coming from Brazil said not to bother, Argentina has the grandest views. It's all inside a national park, and you get there by bus or taxi from the town of Puerto Iguazu, where there are a variety of hotels and restaurants. The restaurant La Hacienda had excellent food--mostly from the paradilla. It's on southern end of Ave. Aguirre, al Centro, phone 03757-15407018.

I stayed at the very upscale Iguazu Grand Hotel Casino & Resort, which goes for about $230/night in low season. The room was lovely, but the pool area was sublime. 3 different pools on three different levels, waterfalls between, all surrounded by lush tropical jungle. Pop an ice cube in my drink and bring it on! There are a lot of cheap places to stay in Iguazu, but for a true vacation feel away from backpackers (and there are lots of backpackers in South America) this spot was sublime. The photo shows their pool area.

Getting to the falls is easy: a public bus with the word "Cataratas" goes through the town of Puerto Iguazu, and will get you to the falls for about $3, and takes about 20 minutes. The busses run every 45 minutes between 7:15 a.m. a nd 7:15 p.m.

Other Argentina Information:
Buenos Aires
Andes Mountains

Getting to Argentina

It's not cheap, and from Vancouver it takes at least 20 hours with layovers. Some routings are via

• Houston: Continental Airlines, which I flew using points, and quite enjoyed. They require a 6+ hour layover, but the Houston airport is like a shopping mall. Plus for only $45 you can access their lounge, excellent value.
• Mexico City: Mexicana, saves transiting the U.S., for those who don't like to do that or require a U.S. visa. Mexico City may require an overnight layover on the southbound, but it's quick on the return flight. My partner flew them, and they allowed a 3-day Mexico City stopover with no extra charge.
• Toronto: Air Canada. Sure, you'll collect Aeroplan (or redeem them), but you'll also require 2 stops: Toronto and Santiago Chile, both directions.

Low-season airfare should be around the $1,100 mark. High season should be around $1,500, which is what we paid for Kevin's ticket on Mexicana.

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