Hello Randall Enjoyed your appearance on Studio 4. What travel website do you recommend for discount travel airfare for Hawaii and/or Toronto? There seem to be too many websites to choose from. Thx Mike”
Answer(s):
Toronto: if you need to fly across Canada, there’s not much choice. We basically have an airline duopoly in this country, with WestJet (WS) and Air Canada (AC) controlling the game. On occasion, small players like Sunwing offer Vancouver-Toronto flights. In the east, Porter Airlines is a possibility.
But for travel across most of Canada, it’s AC and WS. Best bet: subscribe to both airlines’ e-mail services, and make sure you read every email they send you–right down to the end. It’s not that time consuming, and it’s where you’ll find their deals.
Also, watch their websites on Wednesday afternoon/evenings — I’ve often found they toss on a sale at that point.
As I mentioned on-air, the AC passes are a very good value right now. Two people can fly round-trip anywhere in Canada for $450 each. Days/times are limited on that offer. Check it out at here.
Hawaii & other International
For Hawaii specifically, I recommend Vancouver travellers keep a close eye on pricing from both YVR and Seattle. Alaska Airlines has been offering round-trip Seattle-Hawaii for abour US$350, which is a good price. However, WestJet has offered it for just over CAD$400 in the past, including taxes/fees. So you just have to do a lot of looking.
One site that can be VERY helpful for this is Kayak.com. Use it. NOTE, however, that it doesn’t always (ever?) check WestJEt. I just did sample pricing for an imaginary trip in October, and found WestJet round-trip YVR-HNL, nonstop for CAD 449.77 on WestJet’s website, while on Kayak the best from Vancouverwas US$559 with a stop in Seattle, or $414 nonstop from Seattle. (All amounts are converted to CAD, exchange rates will vary until you lock in your purchase, and fares I found my no longer be available by the time you search. There may be even cheaper flights on other sites, but these are sites I personally have found helpful.)
You can also consider trying to “bid” for flights and prices using Priceline.com.
Alternately, you can use an old-fashioned travel agent! Remember, your time also has a value.
Please comment here on the blog and let me and my readers know what happens with your trip.
For my non-Canadian readers, a mini-primer. Canada (where I live) has only 2 substantial domestic airlines, legacy carrier Air Canada and 10-year-old WestJet. It’s sort of like if the United States only had Continental and Southwest. Air Canada does fly a broad global schedule in addition to covering most of Canada. WestJet flies to many Candian cities in head-to-head competition with Air Canada, as well as to a handful of seasonal U.S. destinations, Mexico, the Caribbean, and Hawaii.
Today, WestJet announced that it is officially the preferred airline of a majority of travelers. According to survey results from Toronto-based Leger Marketing, 49% of Canadians choose WestJet as their fave, while 35% choose Air Canada. Presumably the other 16% chose smaller carriers like hip Porter Airlines or carriers that serve the Arctic, like Air North.
Meanwhile, Air Canada announced that it will begin paying travel agents a 7% commission to sell it’s lowest-fare “Tango” ticket, matching WestJet’s similar annoucement, and effectively admitting that WestJet is running the domestic game.
As regards the survey annoucement, comparing WestJet and Air Canada is odd, unless the survey only asked for respondents’ opinions on travel where the two carriers actually compete. I have to say, I like flying WestJet. In fact, I like it a lot.
But I prefer to fly Air Canada for one reason: their far-superior points program (frequent-flyer miles): Aeroplan. I like that I earn points for distance flown, rather than WestJet’s scheme of points for dollars spent. Sometimes a long-haul ticket is cheaper than a short haul.
Meanwhile, I recently had my first chance to fly Air Canada international, from Toronto to Sao Paulo, Brazil. The overall experience was fine. Outbound flight was a treat as it was only about 30% sold, so everyone got a whole row of seats to sleep on; return was about 98% sold, so in coach we slept sitting up. It was on-par with most other airline’s international service.
I truly wish WestJet would beef up their cross-border schedules, and go into markets Air Canada doesn’t directly serve. Selfishly I wish they flew YVR or YYC – SLC. YVR-DEN also seems sensible, as does YVR-EWR.
Air Canada, in their infinite marketing wisdom, must think we’re all idiots.
Suddenly they’re “guaranteeing” us their “lowest fare.” In an email from Ben Smith
Executive Vice-President and Chief Commercial Officer, they say:
Our Lowest Fare Guarantee, is a unique initiative in the Canadian marketplace that not only ensures you get the lowest Air Canada fare available, but also provides a $50 travel credit for your next trip should you find a lower fare in the same fare brand and on the same flight within 24 hours of your purchase.”
Hmm. If they wanted to truly innovate, they’d make that promise for more than 24 hours. Give us a lowest fare guarantee for 14 days, or 30 days. Prove to us you care about low fares, Air Canada.
And BTW Air Canada, 24-hour price-match is hardly innovative. Some U.S. airlines have been doing similar for some time — in fact, Delta will give you $100, or let you cancel your ticket for a full refund and without a penalty fee on the same day. And the retail world has been doing it even longer. Seems IKEA or Home Depot or Wal-Mart…or even Canadian companies like The Bay, are more-than happy to refund my purchase within about a month. Or to make a price-adjustment if something goes on sale.
Try THAT, Air Canada. Guarantee me the lowest price, period. If I pay $139 for a seat from Vancouver to Calgary, and you later put it on sale for $89 — AND I discover that, allow me to get the lower price. And don’t you DARE think of charging me a service fee to do it.
A friend just recounted some adventures of losing his reliable guidebooks while walking the Caminos of Spain. That brought to mind my early experiences of travel — long before the Internet, and before guidebooks, as we know them, attempted to expose every corner of the planet.
When I first started travelling in Asia, circa 1987, there were very few decent guidebooks, and certainly NONE for China. I used to travel largely by word-of-mouth. It was different, challenging, and fun. In some ways more interesting than our modern instant-info-for-everything era.
For my first trip into China, my mother and I were some of the very first independent travellers. Tourism there was young, and most people went with organized tours. We got our visas from a shady-looking Hong Kong travel agent, paid him about $10 for 3 pages of mimeographed traveller’s tips, and off we went. I now realize I missed, perhaps, the biggest opportunity of my life. I could have written the first guidebook to China. Oops!
These days among travellers (and I just returned from Brazil, where I talked to LOTS), there is much debate about what guidebook company is best, and the fact that guidebooks put towns and hostels and sites into instant “stardom;” the minute they’re exposed via guidebooks, they run a serious risk of quickly being stripped of charm and character. Luckily, many have held on. Ilha Grande, which I’ll write about shortly, was one of those places.
What experiences have you had with, or without, guidebooks?
Grabbed a cab to go uptown this week. Basically needed to go straight up 8th Ave. Normally would take the subway, but had too much luggage to haul.
Told the cabbie the address, 414 WEST 46th (fabulous hotel, btw), and off we went. He started up 8th, then when traffic was heavy he turned cross-town. I thought maybe he’d go a couple of blocks and see if things were faster on 6th. Not a big deal.
Well, he kept zig zagging his way across town, and finally I spoke up and said, “where are you going? My destination is the other way.”
“Huh?” He responded. “You want 414 West 46th, right? That’s this way.” He pointed to the east.
Uh, no…it’s that way, said me. He then admitted he gets east and west mixed up. WTF? How did he get a taxi license? I said, “turn the meter off right now.” The meter was at about $13 by then. He was totally apologetic, and said, “I’ll only charge you $8 at the destination,” which is less than the ride should have cost.
Finally got to the hotel, he said, “no charge. I feel so bad.” I handed him $10, and said I hoped his day improved…and “learn your east/west!”
The lesson for you? When traveling, it’s best to have an idea where your destination is in relation to where you start. That way you’ll know if the cab is lost or taking you the “long way.”
In case you’re not already Tweeting (how did you find this blog post, in that case), this video may not make 100% sense. But if you are tweeting, you’ll laugh out loud.
My only criticism? It’s over 3 mintues long. Next time these peeps should limit their videos to 24 seconds. You know, practice what you preach.
Now, be sure you’re following me BOTH the places I Tweet!
So someone created a bunch of crazy Facebook polls asking for our fave movies, places, restaurants, etc. And I took the bait…wasting 30 minutes.
Or was it a waste? Acutally, pausing to consider my five favorite restaurants was a fascinating exercise. Considering I travel all over the world (and no, I haven’t been everywhere or tried every restaurant), and am often treated to some exquisite and pricey gourmet food, pausing to see which ones popped into my head was quite revealing.
So, here are MY top five, plus a couple of extras:
Vij’s, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Vikram Vij takes Indian to a whole new place. See my review in Travel+Leisure.
The Red Iguana, Salt Lake City, Utah, USA. This family-owned Mexican restaurant is in a league of its own: the
Red Iguana Restaurant in Salt Lake City may create the world's best mole sauces.
Cardenas family makes 6 different mole (pronounced mole-ay) sauces from scratch every day. There’s nothing smothered in tasteless red sauce and jack cheese here! Red Iguana is a rare chance to try the “king” of moles: Mole Negro, made with bananas and served with turkey, or the insanely delicious dish called papadzules, which marries boiled eggs, mole pipian, and mole verde. Often has huge line ups.
Leo Fu’s Chinese Cuisine,Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Having lived in Taiwan and traveled extensively in China and Hong Kong, I know a thing or two about good Chinese food. I also know it’s very hard to find in North America. Surprisingly, this funky spot next to a John Deere tractor dealership in the middle of the Canadian prairie churns out some of the best Chinese food I’ve ever eaten. It’s consistently delicious, and not-too westernized. Best dishes: salt & pepper chicken, Szechwan shredded pork. 511 70th Avenue SW, Calgary.
Ajili Mojili, San Juan, Puerto Rico. I “discovered” this true gem from a guidebook many years ago. My then-partner wanted to go to Chilis. I insisted on trying something uniquely local, and have luckily been back several times in the years since. In-the-know locals agree with me, this is one magical spot with brilliant and unique food. Their specialty is called Mofongo, “mashed fried green plantain dough, made with garlic and pork rinds,” and other meats can be added. It’s sooooo good.
Corned Beef Sandwich at Katz's Deli, New York. YUM!
New York City (Lower East Side). This jam-packed eatery is loaded with history and atmosphere. Cured meat sandwiches are the thing: pastrami and corned beef are the dazzlers, hand carved before your eyes when you order at the counter. Sometimes the carver even hands you a sample while you’re waiting. Be warned, the sandwiches are HUGE. Plan to share. Amazing experience; delicious and 100% memorable.
Additional choices (I could go on and on…but here are a few more I’ll rush back to anytime I have the chance)
Le Clocher Pencher, Quebec City, Quebec, Canada. Funky bistro with some of the best food in Quebec. 203 rue St-Joseph est., 418-640-0597
Chiz’s Cougar Cave, St. Anthony, Idaho, USA. Very unique Asian-American, friendly, counter service or take out only. Get the Chinese combo plate, or for something truly decadent, try the finger steaks. 246 N 2nd W, (208) 624-7633.
John’s Pizza, New York City, NY, USA. The only problem with this dazzling pizza is you have to order a whole pie…but
"Asador" Hugo Portillo grills meat to divine perfection at Desnivel in Buenos Aires.
never mind, I’ve downed one myself. They have multiple locations now, but the Greenwhich Village location is the original (and my preference).
Desnivel Parrilla, Buenos Aires, Argentina. Possible the best steak of your life. And the least expensive. Defensa 855 (San Telmo), phone 4300-9081
Chives, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. Local is the key word in chef Darren’s amazing cuisine.
Raincity Grill, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Again, it’s seriously local cuisine…seems everything on the menu grew nearby. Sublime. Pricey. Worth the occasional splurge.
My pals told me there’s a cool ‘real people live here’ vibe. They were right.
I’ve driven by Canmore, AB a hundred times. To me, it’s always been the service town just outside BanffNationalPark’s gates.Friends told me Canmore has gradually reinvented itself as a destination in its own right with a “real people live here” vibe, so I stopped in and discovered three new fave travel spots, each making the world a little greener.
1. Fab food is at CrazyWeedKitchen. My burger was perfection, perhaps because both the ketchup and bun were house-made. It’s got a lot fancier food than burgers (like Korean BBQ Alberta beef), too. Yum.
Eco-point: It’s a stunner-of-a-spot, with a livingroof covered in regional grasses and flora.
2. While Canmore has a bunch of mid- and high-end accommodations, the surprise was on the cheap end. TheHostelBear, a renovated hotel, takes budget lodging to a new level of Rocky Mountain chic. Hanging in the lobby and games room I felt like I’d landed in an upscale ski lodge with leather furnishings and a roaring fire. Some rooms have fireplaces, and every room has an ensuite bath (rooms come in dorm quads and more, from an astonishing $25 a night); private rooms are available, too).
Eco-point: Increasing the number of guests in each room, plus the fact that many travellers will reuse their own sheets and towels, makes this place easier on the environment. Nice.
3. Getting around Canmore on bikes is easy—and 10 bucks buys a riding membership at CanmoreCommunityCruisers, a co-op with bikes stashed in three different “hubs” (storage spaces)—one at a chic downtown tea shop. Or donate two hours volunteer time to pay for membership. Cool.
Eco-point: No gas = no greenhouse gas!
What else I loved: Exploring CanmoreNordicCentreProvincialPark, site of the cross-country and biathlon events at the 1988 Winter Olympics. And wandering along the calm oasis of Policeman’s Creek in the middle of town with the massive Rockies all around…so peaceful.
This is a work in progress! I’ll be adding lots more info about Vancouver in the next few months, since there’s so much interest for visitors with the upcoming Vancouver Winter Olympics (more exactly called Vancouver Olympic Winter Games).
Vij’s. Amazing Indian food. Possibly the best I’ve ever had…including in India. Wow. No reservations–rich, famous, normal-Joe…doesn’t matter. All wait their turn! Moderately – expensive.
Pho #1 Vietnamese, 1120 Denman Street. Really good noodle soups. Perfect on a chilly/rainy Vancouver day. Cheap.
Wild Garlic Bistro, 792 Denman Street. Best brunch value anywhere. Excellent bennies. If the Chinese pork bennie is on the menu, you MUST try it! Owner Sandy Leung has a photographic memory…she never forgets your name or what you like! Moderately cheap brunch, reasonable dinner.
Ma Dang Coul, 847 Denman Street. Very good Korean. Did someone say dol-sot bibimbap? YUM! Cheap.
Raincity Grill, 1193 Denman Street. High end. One of my two favourite restaurants in Vancouver. AMAZING use of locally-sourced ingredients. Dazzling views of English Bay. Expensive.
Cilantro & Jalapeno gourmet Mexican foods, Lonsdale Quay Market, North Vancouver. VERY good mole!! A rare treat in Vancouver’s changing (but still sorely lacking) Mexican food scene. Cheap.
Dinesty Taiwanese, 8111 Ackroyd Road #160, Richmond. This gem is hard to find, but worth the effort. Best beef noodle soup I’ve had in North America. Stylin’ joint, too. Cheap.
Chica’s Latin Heritage Foods, 8722 Granville Street (@ 71st), near YVR Int’l Airport. Not the greatest Mexican/Latin American food, but fairly good for Vancouver. A welcome dinner stop after a long flight home!
Yesterday I asked my Twitter followers the following question:
“Polling #PR tweeps? Do any of you actually read your followers, or just post and hope people read you?”
I did this for a couple of reasons:
I have a hard time figuring out how to follow my several hundred followers, but I make a valliant effort to frequently scroll through and see what they’re saying. That’s why I follow them, after all.
I have a hard time believing that large companies who are on Twitter to promote their organization, and follow several hundred, or thousand, tweeps, actually care what anyone’s tweeting about. I think they’re purely there because they hear social networking is important.
So, the interesting result is this: After about 12 hours,
7 PR tweeps had responded. There are waaaay more than that who supposedly “follow” me, likely more than 100.
Only one of those tweeps hides behind a corporate logo, most of the others (a couple of whom I actually know) are independent PR tweeps.
Start talking positively about things. If someone asks you your opinion about the economy, tell them it’s up to us–me, you, them–to change it. Then CHANGE it! One dollar at a time.
Spend some money–buy a vacation or a new coat or even a grande latte at your favorite coffee shop.
Challenge 10 friends (and your entire Twitter / Facebook list) to do the same.
And do it again tomorrow, and the next day, and the next.
Let’s use social networking to turn attitudes around! Much of the economy is based on emotions, and fear does nothing to help.
I was almost overwhelmed with frustration when reading the front page story of my local newspaper today: “After all the bad news, there’s more bad news.”
A simple question: when will economists—and business/economy journalists—start providing suggestions on how individualscan turn the sinking economy around.
This may be an oversimplification, but it seems to me the minute one U.S. mega-bank failed, the whole world put their wallets away and decided to wait for somebody else (governments, apparently) to spend first. Governments can only do so much. And isn’t it us who are funding them. That eventually brings it back to each individual, no?
Personally, with every dollar I spend these days (and I’m trying very hard to not participate in the recession), I say to myself, “this money helps keep the economy moving. I’m doing my part to turn the ship around.”
Note: While I realize those who have already lost jobs are in desperate circumstances, the majority of North Americans still have our incomes. Only by jolting the economy–and that means spending–can jobs be re-created for everyone.
*I’m no economist or expert, just a guy who’s reasonably smart, and who is fed up with the media’s daily dose of doom. Common sense says it’s up to you and me to turn it around. Join me in trying it?
Who is willing to fly an airline that charges to use the loo? Ryanair thinks we'll do it.
European budget airline Ryanair could really start pissing off their passengers. According to numerous media, they’re seriously considering charging £1 when a passenger needs to use the loo.
Yesterday the airline’s CEO told the BBC that the idea is plausible.
I think it stinks. While Ryanair has been innovative and gimmicky in so many ways (sometimes you can even buy a ticket for £1, before a 737-load of taxes and fees are added).
But charge me to use the toilet? That’s taking things too far. I don’t mind paying for a sandwich (actually, I believe airline food quality has improved since most carriers stopped serving hot meals in coach), and I don’t think airlines charge enough for headphones–they’re so cheap most people will just chuck them, what a waste.
But those items are options–as is taking luggage. When you gotta pee, or more, that’s not an option. Ryanair: your idea is the shits.
I say: if they go through with this, boycott them.
I’ve long believed that newspapers have been their own worst enemy by using too much wire service content–not enough local content, or content with local connections.
As traditional major-daily newspapers struggle to figure this out for themselves, a bunch of smart journalists (apparently with solid track records) have started a new approach in Minnesota. They’ve created a credible online publication — called MinnPost — with bona-fide journalism behind it. Local readers are asked to donate.
According to their site, “High-quality journalism is a community asset that sustains democracy and quality of life, so we are asking people who believe in it to support our work.” Time will tell if it can work.
But what does something like that mean for a travel journalist like me? Well, I KNOW from experience that my LOCAL readers value my opinion of faraway places because I understand who they are, and can address their concerns more personally.
A while back I posted a blog entry asking if sex is a motivator for your travel plans. I know I’m not the only person who believes in this concept…as evidenced by this ad for a new travel website (in the UK, I think).
I think sex and travel are tightly linked–frankly I believe the idea that we might get laid a bit more away from home is quite compelling, and advertisers have been using it for years, although generally more subtly. Consider all the gorgeous people shown mostly naked in ads for tropical destinations. You subliminally know that they’re headed back to the cabana for some whoopie.
As for the gekko ad in question, I thought it was horribly executed.
And the question about male vs. female imagery in these things? I think they’re crazy not to use men. I believe most straight people’s travel decisions are driven by females, and they’d prefer to watch a hot guy. And the gay crowd (huge spending travel demographic) would be happy to watch, too.
What do YOU think?
(Thanks to Mike Butcher for getting me started on this topic…again).
I lived in Chicago 22 years ago, and was an avid fan of the Chicago Tribune, the city’s very fine daily newspaper. I actually appeared in a front-page photo back then, as a bystander watching the annual St. Patrick’s Day parade.
Well, today I made it into the Tribune’s pages again! This time as a writer and photographer. My story and photos on cruising in the Canadian Arctic ran on the front page of their travel section. Wow, I’m very pleased.
I’ve been trying to get a story into the Tribune for many years, and it’s been a fun challenge. So glad to have finally broken through. Newspapers are in a period of dramatic change, so who knows if I’ll ever have the chance to write for them again, but I sure hope to.
Note: this story was written specifically about my Air North flight in January, 2007. I was lucky enough to repeat the trip in January 2009. Other than slightly warmer weather (which scuttled the Dawson stop due to freezing rain) and a better heating system in the plane, not much has changed. Oh yeah…and I dressed warmer.
“Your bag is four pounds too heavy,” the Air North counter agent sighs. “But I’ll let it slide this time.”
Randall Shirley on boar Air North's Hawker Siddely.
“Thanks,” I reply, “the rules on weight seem to change by airline and by the day.”
My experience with Air North: Yukon’s Airline, starts pretty much the same as any other airline.
You’ve flown to Inuvik before, right?”
“Uh, no…this is my first time to Canada’s far north.”
And this is where the experience veers right off the normal airline schtick.
“Oh,” she raises her eyebrows, as if to wonder what a city-slicker is doing headed to the Arctic in the dead-of-January-winter. “Then, here’s how this works, you just wait in those chairs over by the elevator, outside security. Around 0800 we’ll call the flight.”
“Outside security? Your joking, right?”
“No sir, flight 307 is an un-secure flight. We’ll meet you outside security and take you to the plane. And no need to worry about window or aisle, it is open seating.” She hands me a luggage claim tag and boarding pass.” My stomach grumbles, reminding me that a bit of food might be a good idea before the 5.5 hour trek north.
“I suppose my food choices are the snacks in the gift shop, right?”
“Oh no, we have a full-service restaurant.” And so I follow the sign that says “Erica’s Restaurant, Just Up the Yukon’s Golden Staircase.” Surprisingly the restaurant opened at 5:00 am, and a friendly waitress serves me a freshly cooked omelet and home-fried potatoes. I have a great view seat out the restaurant’s airside windows, and between flurries of blowing snow I see Air Canada’s early morning CRJ to Vancouver lift into the sky.
An Air North 737-200 sits at the airbridge in the morning darkness. One of two the airline operates, the 737 will not be my aircraft.
At 0806 the airport-wide PA system crackles to life: “this will be the last and final boarding announcement for Air North flight 307 with service to Dawson (YDA), Old Crow (YOC), and Inuvik (YEV).” It is not only the last announcement, it is also the first!
Boarding is through “unsecure” Gate 3 without so much as an ID check of the 17 passengers, down a flight of stairs and out into the snowy dark morning—the snow bathed in the orange glow of the terminal’s worklights.
The Hawker Siddely sits on the COLD tarmac in Old Crow, during a brief stop.
Air North’s Hawker Siddely 748 (C-FSSE) simply sports the word “Yukon” on its tail. It sits in the cold (about -30 degrees C), front cargo door lifted and being loaded, airsteps down at the back. The aircraft set up for combi operations; passengers at the rear. The old HS748 is ice cold inside—silly me—I’d packed my hat and gloves in my checked luggage. The overhead bins are well, non existent really. My computer bag requires the space of both seats in front of me. I choose a window seat on the Starboard side, and have the two-seat row to myself.
While we’re getting settled, the lone FA pops up for a chat with the two guys in the exit row—just behind the cargo hold bulkhead. She gives them the details on emergency operations, and asks if they understand and are willing. One of them quips, “got it, and we promise not to practice!” Everyone laughs.
The FA makes the safety announcements, and plays a scratchy tape of repeating the annoucements in Canada’s required French. She then makes her way up the aisle asking, “would you a like anything to drink once we’re in the air?” Like a good Canadian traveller, I order Canada Dry ginger ale. Everyone else requests coffee. I later discover why—even the flight attendant never removes her gloves or thick parka during the entire flight. My ice-cold ginger ale does nothing to warm me up!
The Hawker’s engines roar to life for an on-time takeoff (0830) into the dark morning sky. The pilot (who, when I see him outside the aircraft at our first stop, turns out to be a 20-something youngster) makes a P-A announcement letting us know that we’ll be cruising at 14,000 feet on our 70-minute flight to Dawson City.
The HS engines are just outside my window, and it’s really loud. Luckily, I’ve got my brand new Sony MDR-NC6 noise cancelling headphones and iPod with me; this noisy bird is an excellent first test. The phones don’t completely hide the engine’s roar, but do a good enough job that I can hear every nuance of the Vancouver Men’s Chorus tunes I choose—including the rousing anthem, Canada: This Is My Home, which comes on just as the sunlight begins to illuminate the spectacular Canadian north morning light. It’s a lump-in-throat moment.
My ginger ale and a snack arrive—a choice of muffins, served well-chilled (there seems to be a theme…). The frills are few—I truly know we’re headed into remote and wild country. Before I know it we’re on descent into Dawson City.
“All continuing passengers are required to leave the aircraft here and wait in the terminal,” the FA announces, “this is a refueling stop.” Actually, if we hadn’t gone into the terminal, we’d have frozen in the plane as the engines were off, the door was open, and no external power was connected.
Dawson City’s terminal is little larger than a hut, but it’s warm inside. There are signs advertising adventure tours in the Klondike, a reminder of exactly how strong this region’s folk heritage is. The 12 passengers who leave us in Dawson receive their luggage through a small, floor-level door facing the airside. The FA doubles as counter agent, checking in a couple of new guests, and shortly seven passengers are headed to the plane.
The pilot spots me with my camera, and wishes me well in getting good shot in the cold, blue morning light. The fuel truck has pulled away, and our FA simply says “ok, we’re ready to go.” No microphone needed. Only seven passengers board the icy HS. We make another southbound departure, and turn northwest. Part way into the flight we cross the invisible line of the Arctic Circle. Most anyone who has flown between North America and Europe has probably crossed the Arctic Circle, but few of us have been lucky enough to have our aircraft start our descent just after the line is crossed…landing within the circle itself!
Such is the case on this Air North flight approaching the tiny Native village of Old Crow.
Patchy fog is in the region, with snowy, barren mountains here and there. We make a long, slow descent toward the assumed airstrip, and suddenly bank hard to the right for a fly-by. The strip appears to be about 1,000 feet below us, and the pilot seems to have chosen to have a look before committing. A quick circle around puts us on the ground in Old Crow.
It’s not a fuel stop, but there’s no question about going inside the surprisingly spacious and modern log terminal. Everyone inside the terminal is Native, several of whom would be considered “Elders.” The Elder women are dressed in the colorful gingham print coats of the region—the gingham covering much warmer layers underneath. Fur-trimmed hoods are requisite, and I know I’m entering a very special region of the world.
Several people in the terminal are there to collect freight, which I overhear some refer to as “food-mail.” Indeed, it appears all the aircraft’s freight is off-loaded at Old Crow, piece by piece, onto pickup trucks or trailers pulled by ATVs, including many cases of soda pop. I later learn that a carton of orange juice can sometimes cost $15 in the region.
The Old Crow stop is longer than the Dawson stop, purely because of the cargo work. Inuvik, which will be our final stop, has frequent 737 service on two carriers from Edmonton, so it’s not likely anyone would ship freight from Whitehorse (or Vancouver) to Inuvik via Air North’s Hawker-Siddely.
Once again the FA calls us to board, and about 14 people climb the aft stair for the final leg of the journey. Many are Native, and it’s very clear: this is Native land; non-natives are certainly the minority in the region.
The Arctic light at mid-day as we fly toward Inuvik.
The hop from Old Crow to Inuvik is a short 174 miles (278 K), leaving the Yukon behind and passing into the political jurisdiction of the Northwest Territories.
The ice-cold winter scenery is a kaleidoscope in blacks, whites, and greys. The land below would be shallow marsh in the summer; the earth’s “active layer” flowing over the perma-frost. As we glide down toward a perfect landing on Inuvik’s 6,000 foot (1,828 meter) runway, I look out the window to the south. It is midday, but the sun is barely scratching its way along the southern horizon. Is it sunrise or sunset? In mid-January it’s a bit of both. (During my stay the sun is “up” for just over three hours/day).
We park in front of Inuvik’s large, surprisingly modern passenger terminal and the passengers climb down the Hawker Siddely 748’s stairs one final time. The Arctic air is instantly mean to my lungs. I find myself wanting to linger a moment with the trusty bird, but it’s just too cold (if only I’d dressed like a local…if only I’d known!). I make my way quickly into the terminal where a stuffed Polar bear greets me near the baggage carousel. Glancing around I spot the counters of the many small, hardy carriers who brave Arctic flying: Canadian North (I’ll fly them later in the week), First Air, Aklak Air.
The bear watches over me as I collect my luggage and find my host—Judi Falsnes who, with her husband Olaf, owns and
A stuffed polar bear greets passengers near the Inuvik airport bag carousel.
operates one of two rental car agencies, a lodge called Arctic Chalet, a dog-sledding tourist operation, and more.
“Welcome to the Arctic,” she says as we drive away from Inuvik airport. “You’re going to have a great time here—I can’t wait to take you out sledding with our amazing white huskies!”
As she talks I glace back toward the runway and see Air North’s HS 748 lift into the sky for its return trip to Whitehorse. I do indeed have an excellent time in Inuvik—the dogs are great, my daily work with people in the region’s oil & gas business goes well, and the Northern Lights keep me up almost all night. But the great time I have in Inuvik is no better than the fun I had simply getting there.
Randall Shirley is a freelance travel journalist based in Vancouver, B.C. (YVR). www.randallshirley.com. Websites of interest: Air North www.flyairnorth.com, Arctic Chalet & Dog Sledding www.arcticchalet.com.
We’ve all heard of the many on-tarmac airline delays over the past few years — the times when a plane pulls away from the gate, sometimes even taxis a bit, then stops. Usually it’s weather related.
For various reasons, the airline refuses to return passengers to the terminal.
Yesterday, passengers were stuck on a FROZEN AirTran plane for 10 hours.
Well, it seems to me that the passengers could take control of this situation: open an emergency exit, get off the plane, and walk back to the terminal.
It’s probably illegal, and probably not very safe or smart. And I’m not advocating it. But perhaps something like that would finally get the airlines and the traffic controllers to realize they can’t keep doing this to people.
A pal on the other side of the planet (Perth, Australia, to be exact) has asked for my recommendations on where to stay during Vancouver’s huge gay Pride events, which always take place the first of August.
It’s worth noting: this event draws massive crowds–especially the parade and festival which are held on Sunday. It falls in the middle of Vancouver’s already very-busy tourist season, and takes place in the heart of the city. Booking early is not only advised, it’s required.
#1 Pick: The Sylvia Hotel. Vancouver’s original “high rise” owns one of our city’s most enviable locations, right on English Bay Beach. It’s a stunning spot. The hotel itself is historic in many ways, but when I last stayed there (4 years ago) the rooms were clean, comfortable, and nice-enough. The bar downstairs has sublime views if less-than-sublime food. The location is a quick ten minute walk to the main gay bars, and just steps from the parade route. Pricing here can be very affordable for those on a budget, and it does sell-out in the summer. Best of all, it’s one block from my apartment, which makes it really easy for you to invite me over for a drink (or, perhaps, vice versa)!
#2 Pick: The Listel Hotel. Remember the guy in high school who was just soooooo cool, even though he wasn’t the best looking, the smartest, the fittest? But everyone who gave him a chance loved him? That’s the Listel’s place in Vancouver’s hotel scene. The Listel is my personal favourite Vancouver hotel for many reasons. The location on the west end of Robson Street is steps from everything downtown has to offer; including many of the best hole-in-the-wall Japanese and Korean food joints, which are clustered around the intersection of Robson and Denman streets. It’s an easy walk to: Stanley Park, Robson Street shopping, the gay village, Coal Harbour…basically everything you could want. But wait, there’s more. The hotel itself is a crammed full of magnificent art–from the minute you walk in the door. Two floors are designated as “gallery floors,” and art is curated by famed Buschlen-Mowatt gallery. Two more floors are called the “museum floors” and are curated by the legendary Museum of Anthropology. Decor is eclectic throughout, and matches the styles of the floors. Artists, musicians, writers, and more love this place. Pricing at this hotel can be found the budget end–it’s worth more than they often charge.
#3 Pick: Sandman on Denman. If being in the middle of the gay village is important, this is the place to stay. The rennovated apartment tower features lovely rooms, some with separate living and kitchen areas. Views from about the 8th floor upward generally have unbelievable views. Downstairs, Moxie’s bar & grill is exceptionally popular for gay diners. The main gay bars and dance spots are all very close, but it can all feel like a bit much after a day or two.
#4 Pick: The Coast Plaza Hotel. This mega-hotel lacks character, but location and views more-than make up for it. It’s the de-facto conference hotel for many gay events, and is in the English Bay/Denman Street part of the city, about 10 minutes walk to the heart of the gay village. Downstairs, Delilah’s martini bar maintains its reputation among the city’s swankiest. The Pride Parade passes in front of this hotel on the Denman Street side, but the hotel tower is set back from the street (above a shopping centre) so views of the street would not be great.
#5 Pick: Nelson House B&B. For something quite different, this gay-owned B&B will give you a feeling for what it’s like to live in one of the world’s most densely gay-populated neighbourhoods, Vancouver’s West End. It’s very close to the English Bay/Denman Street zone (under five minute walk) and about 10 minutes to the heart of the gay village commercial zone.
#6 Pick: The Opus Hotel.It’s trendy, and pulls in yuppy shopping chicks from Calgary with it’s metrosexual vibe. The Yaletown location isn’t my favourite–I’ve never found the neighbourhood deserving of the high-end price tags it commands, it’s all a bit dense for me, and friends who (have) lived there complain about the area’s noise from traffic. Nonetheless, the Opus is a glorious slice of design. It’s the only hotel room where I’ve ever seen a bathroom with windows in front of the sink–open the shades and let the neighbours watch you shave.
Note: Most downtown Vancouver hotels are in decent walking range of the gay village business zone.
If you read my story in the Vancouver Sun (January 10, 2008) about options for getting to the Seattle airport, I have a correction. The Entertainment Book has not renewed their coupon offer for the 2009 book. There may be other discount offers for their service, I’m looking into it.
Thanks to reader Stephanie for noticing this, and apologies for any mis-information.
I’ve driven by 
