Randall on the Road

You know I love to fly. In the last couple of years, I’ve had the luck that 2 of my milestone flights happened to be to great destinations.

Flight #500 was from Houston (IAH) to Buenos Aires (EZE) on Continental, December of 2007.

Flight #600 was from Vancouver (YVR) to Taipei (TPE) on EVA Airways, November 2009.

In all my flying–big planes and small, commercial and private–I have never been involved in any kind of accident. Have never experienced super-severe turbulence, seen oxygen masks come down, etc. To my knowledge I have been on one flight that did a very last-minute fly-around Newark due to traffic on the runway.

Today I saw a Reuters story about the number of Americans hurt or killed in flying accidents each year. The total is about 1,000 hurt, about 750 killed. The majority of those are in private airplanes or parachuting accidents.

Comparatively there 2.35 million people are said to be injured in motor vehicle accidents, and and 37,000 killed. Wow. I’ve never been hurt in even a fender bender. Knock wood!

Just interesting travel stuff. Go flying?

Was lucky to dine last night at Vancouver’s venerable Raincity Grill. The resto prides itself on sustainable, local cuisine. The waiter nearly choked when I asked if the rib-eye was from Alberta. It was from nearby Pemberton, and was divine (as was the entire meal). I live around the corner from this English Bay landmark, but it’s an upscale choice, so is saved for special occasions.

Vancouver has such a wealth of amazing restaurants. Visitors to our upcoming Winter Olympics should plan to sample a big variety of tastes…from tiny neighbourhood sushi spots (often local’s faves) to well-publicized restos like Vij’s, the above-mentioned Raincity, Coast, Chambar, and more.

In a word, Vancouver is delicious.

A friend’s blog recently effused about the benefits of using miles to flying first class. I disagree. Here’s why (plus my general thoughts on mileage tickets):

I never feel domestic First Class (or biz class) is worth using my miles. Flights are rarely more than five hours, and I can easily handle a coach seat for that long.

I think we’ve all duped ourselves into thinking those hours on the plane are too important–we’ve given them too much weight in the overall travel experience.

Miles are worth somewhere between 1 and 2 cents, and generally the best use of them is to acquire a DOMESTIC ticket that would normally be very expensive. For example: round-trip from Seattle to Newfoundland would likely cost you close to $1,000; but it would only cost 25,000 miles–a mile dollar value of about $500.

There is often a misperception that saving the miles for international travel is a good idea. I rarely think so. If you can buy a ticket from Seattle to London for $600, or use 60,000 miles ($1,200 value) for the same ticket, obviously the cash ticket is the better value.

Like first-class upgrades, mileage tickets in general are misunderstood by the average traveler. The airline marketers generally do a brilliant job of making us think we’re getting more than we actually are.

Randall

A couple of years ago I was lucky enough to cross the entire continent by train–from Vancouver to Halifax, on Canada’s VIA Rail.

VIA Rail is currently offering some amazing pricing for these journeys. Since the publication my story appeared in is no longer in business, I’m re-running the original story below. Go ride a train (or do some kind of travel! Prices may never be so good again).

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It’s considered to be one of the world’s top train journeys. Editor Randall Shirley discovers it’s even better when you snuggle with your boyfriend in the sleeping car between gourmet meals when you’re

Riding The Canadian

Dinner in the diner. Nothing could be finer. Except that Sidney Crosby is just a few tables down, and Matt MacDonald is

VIA Rail's Bullet Car is a great way to really see Canada!

serving my meal. And they’re both ridiculously cute.

Who, and who? Well, you lesbian’s probably know adorable Sidney. He was the number-one pick in the 2005 NHL draft (that’s hockey, guys), and was among the league’s top scorers last season. Matt MacDonald, on the other hand, is simply a very hot college student from Nova Scotia, who works on the train during the summers.

Matt’s also probably really straight. But when he serves me lunch somewhere in the middle of New Brunswick, he makes me feel totally welcome. I’m about as “out” as you can be, and neither hockey stars nor straight college boys intimidate me. Nor do I seem to worry Matt.

Matt is the only guy serving in VIA Rail’s dining car, with three women rounding out the staff. Two of them are nearly fainting over Sidney, even though his friends are just as attractive. “You should go talk to him, and get a photo or an autograph,” one of the girls giggles to me.

I reply that I don’t follow hockey. The only question I have for a millionaire hockey player is why he’s travelling by train, and I’m not going to bother him with that. If I have my photo with a Canadian ice skater, it’ll be David Pelletier, thank you very much!

But the same question could be asked of me: why had I boarded the train almost 5,800 kilometres ago, crossed massive mountains and endless prairies over five days time, when I could have easily jumped on a 737 and crossed the same distance in five hours?

Well, as an old advertising jingle said, “there’s something about a train that’s magic.” Travelling aboard VIA Rail’s Silver &

The retro Bullet Car is a great place to mingle with other passengers. Courtesy VIA Rail.

Blue service (that’s first-class, with sleepers) whisks me magically into a space where time actually slows down. No matter how many times I try, there’s no Internet. In remote regions my cell phone doesn’t always work. From my daytime perch in the Dome Car, I glide seamlessly between conversations with fellow travellers, a trashy novel, and naps. Suddenly, travel actually involves seeing a bit of scenery in between home and destination. It’s sort of like being on a cruise ship, except I can always see land. Gorgeous land.

From coast to coast, this is a glorious way to truly see Canada—including the Rocky Mountains, vast expanses of prairie, the surprisingly unique geology of the Great Lakes region—called the “Canadian Shield” —and the rolling beauty of the east, all with someone else doing the driving.

It requires three different trains to cross Canada. The “classic” portion of the trip—from Vancouver to Toronto—is called The Canadian. The train cars were built over 50 years ago in a glorious, art-deco style. They’ve been preserved in immaculate form (yet updated with in-car showers) and evoke a different time. My partner and I note that inner-city condo developers could learn from the efficiency of our cabin. A small sink hides under a fold-up shelf. There are cubby spaces for tucking our carry-on bags away (and you may only take a small carry on…steamer trunks and large luggage must be checked, and are not accessible again until your final destination). Small pockets on the wall hold books and glasses during the night.

Perhaps the most surprising moment of the trip happens the very first night. While we’re at dinner, our cabin with its two,

Sleeping on a train is magic!

comfy, bolted-down day chairs is magically transformed into a sleeping cabin—bunk beds covered in luxurious sheets and fluffy duvets. Chocolates are on our pillows. I’m not quite sure how it happened—where the chairs went or where the beds appeared from—but there they are. We laugh that the upper bunk’s mesh safety net could make an excellent sling, but alas, it’s just not positioned quite right. We snuggle for a bit on the lower bunk, enjoying the train’s gentle swaying motion, before Kevin climbs the ladder and we’re rocked, ever-so-beautifully, to sleep.

Each morning finds us in a new and exciting landscape. First morning The Canadian snakes between the peaks of Jasper National Park. In the diner, a handsome, 50-something German man asks to join Kevin and me for breakfast. “Of course!” we say. Before long we know Jurgen is gay. But beyond his gay-typical love of travel, he’s on this trip because he’s a train-junkie who has travelled on many of the world’s important railways. The Canadian, he tells us, is among the greatest—one that any railroad fan dreams of doing. He’s friendly over breakfast, but isn’t interested in gay chit chat. He just wants to talk about trains. And mostly he wants to relax and savour the ride.

Everyone gets off the train during a two-hour stop in Jasper. There’s time to explore the town’s shops and galleries, and bask in

Riding through the Canadian Rockies is unforgettable. This is Jasper.

the breathtaking scenery of the Rockies. It’s the only stop between Vancouver and Toronto where we get this much time. Shortly after Jasper, The Canadian blasts out of the final range of Rockies and into the prairies. Major stops are in Edmonton, Saskatoon, Winnipeg.

People warned me that Canada’s prairies will never end, but they do, and it seems I’m quickly upon the Canadian Shield—where clear lakes seem to crowd each other amidst natural rough granite cliffs and forests. Gentle curves in the track often allow me to see the train—end-to-end—as it winds along.

In the unlikely stop of Sioux Junction, I’m disappointed that we’re not greeted by a group of Native chiefs in historic costume. Instead, Trudy, a Caucasian doctor from Toronto, boards the train and joins us at dinner (a succulent bison rib roast—you’ll be amazed by the food they produce in a tiny, all-electric kitchen). She’s just visited a young doctor she mentors in the region, and says taking the train is a way to remind herself to slow down.

I find myself surprisingly sad to The Canadian and its history in Toronto, but quickly commute to Montreal, and board The Ocean—which on many runs is served by a sleek, new, Euro-style train. The train brings me quickly back to the modern era. Lights turn on with the touch of a button. The bathroom feels like an airplane lavatory. The couch seat will obviously be my comfortable bed. But it is no more comfortable than the older train.

I’m now travelling in Easterly Class, the eastern version of Silver & Blue. And at the rear of the train I find an old-fashioned

Learning about lobster trapping while near the Bay of Fundy

Dome Car, reserved for Easterly passengers. That’s where I meet Gary Frenette. His smile instantly wins me over. He’s friendly. And he sends me straight up to the dome where he’s about to make his first educational presentation. He’s an Easterner himself, and as we cross from Quebec to New Brunswick to Nova Scotia, he changes his tartan vest to represent the current region. He shares bits of local lore. He explains the unbelievable tides of New Brunswick’s Bay of Fundy. He shows us how a Nova Scotia lobster trap works. It’s all rather dramatic. And I love it.

Several cars ahead, in the diner, the girls are probably swooning over Sidney Crosby. Later I’ll swoon over adorable Matt MacDonald during dinner. And by afternoon tomorrow I’ll be reflecting on the incredibly welcoming experience I’ve had while crossing Canada by train. Then I’ll explore the surprising number of gay haunts in Halifax. But for now, I’m happy look at the glorious landscape outside the dome, and to listen as Gary explains lobsters.

And perhaps I’ll drift to sleep, knowing that Canada’s just taken me on an amazing ride.

If You Go: In addition to crossing Canada coast-to-coast, you can choose shorter trips between any stations. VIA Rail offers excellent service along “the Corridor,” connecting cities from Detroit (from Windsor, ON) and New York to Toronto, Niagara Region, Montreal, and Quebec City. They also offer service to northern Manitoba, where you can view Polar Bear. VIA employees say winter trips in the Rockies and prairies are sublime. www.ViaRail.ca.

Sleep: Book into VIA’s Silver & Blue and Easterly classes for the most comfortable sleep. VIA also offers “Comfort Class,” similar to a business-class airline seat.

Eat: VIA’s dining cars offer excellent meals, featuring regional cuisines, and are included in the Silver & Blue and Easterly fares. Wine and alcohol are extra. Comfort Class passengers can buy sandwiches and snacks on board. First-class passengers travelling in the Corridor are served pleasant, airline-style meals.

Play: The scenery’s the thing. Only Silver & Blue and Easterly Class passengers have access to the Dome Cars. Many passengers are older Americans and Europeans, similar to mainstream cruising.

Randall above Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; truly a "place of a lifetime"

I just got my new National Geographic Traveler magazine (October 2009), and they’re reviving the 50 places concept. It’s been 10 years since they first created their list, and now they’ve added another 50–so technically it’s their list of 100 places of a lifetime.

I’m repeating their list below, and the spots I’ve visited, along with my comments, are in bold.

And I’m going to start working on my own 50 places of a lifetime list…and perhaps one that reflects my friends’ and colleagues faves, too. So tell me, where are your places of a lifetime, and why?

URBAN SPACES (this is decidedly my travel genre)

1. Athens, Greece
2. Atlanta, Georgia (um, really…did I miss something there? I guess I’ll have to go back)
3. Barcelona, Spain
4. Berlin, Germany (visiting in 2010)
5. Delhi, India (agree–it’s a zany, fascinating place…full of buzz and color)
6. Dublin, Ireland (the depth of character oozes out of the people and the scenery)
7. Florence, Italy (hopefully soon!)
8. Hong Kong (agree–it’s one of the most interesting places on earth, truly a success story in the British Empire’s attempts at, well, imperialism. Plus I dub it the world’s third most-beautiful city setting, behind Rio de Janeiro and Vancouver, BC)
9. Istanbul, Turkey
10. Jerusalem, Israel (Jerusalem was fascinating; but to my eyes such a religious train wreck–so many interesting fragments and shards of dogma with people trying to act them out or complete their pilgrimage…you sort of can’t stop looking at it. It is amusing to watch Christians rent cheap lumber crosses and drag them along the path Jesus walked, just as it is fascinating to watch Jews bob in prayer at the Wailing Wall).
11. London, UK (amazing destination)
12. Mexico City
13. New York, New York (This is my #1 destination in the world–I’ve been back so many times it might be called the place of my travelling lifetime).
14. Paris, France (so beautiful, and the food, especially the cheese…)
15. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (decadent…gorgeous people, astonishing food, and the world’s most beautiful setting for a city)
16. San Francisco, California (another visual stunner, plus the numerous counter-culture aspects make it perpetually fascinating; gay, hippie, vegetarian, zen, drug, and so much more)
17. St. Petersburg, Russia
18. Tokyo, Japan
19. Vancouver, Canada (I agree so much with this, I moved here! I also believe it’s the world’s second most beautifully-set city [Rio de Janeiro #1, Hong Kong #3])
20. Venice, Italy (soon, I hope!)
    ______________________________________________
    WILD PLACES (obviously, not my genre)
    
21. Aleutian Islands, Alaska
22. Amazon Forest
23. Antarctica
24. Arnhem Land, Australia
25. Australian Outback
26. Auyuittuq National Park, Canada
27. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda
28. Canadian Rockies (easily among my top, top places)
    
29. Coast Redwoods, California (fair enough, special)
    
30. Galapagos Islands
31. Grand Canyon (it’s called GRAND for a reason, I was lucky enough to raft its entire length in 1994)
    
32. Lake Baikal, Russia
33. Madidi National Park, Bolivia
34. Okavango Delta, Botswana
35. Papua New Guinea’s Coral Reefs
36. Sgarmatha National Park, Nepal
37. Sahara
38. Serengeti
39. South Georgia Island, South Atlantic Ocean
40. Venezuela’s Tepuis ______________________________________________
    PARADISE FOUND (beaches are pretty, but not my fave thing)
    
41. Aitutaki, Cook Islands
42. Amalfi Coast, Italy (hopefully soon!)
43. Boundary Waters, Minnesota
44. British Virgin Islands
45. Fernando de Noronha Archipelago, Brazil (I have my own Brazilian island paradise!)
46. Greek Islands
47. Hawaiian Islands (yes, Hawaii is paradise)
48. Japanese Ryokan
49. Kerala, India (what? no Goa?)
50. Lord Howe Island, Australia
51. Mayreau, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
52. Molokai, Hawaii (isn’t that technically part of the Hawaiian Islands? And I’ve seen it…)
53. Mount Rigi, Hawaii
54. Pacific Islands
55. Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica
56. Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique
57. Salina, Italy
58. Seychelles (when I’m rich)
59. Torres del Paine, Chile
60. Yap’s Outer Islands, Micronesia
    
    ______________________________________________
    COUNTRY UNBOUND
61. Alps (mountains and region so beautiful it spawned a whole adjective, Alpine)
62. Asturias, Spain
63. Azure Coast, Turkey (soon!)
64. Big Sur, California (stunning, indeed. Fantastic by motorcycle, which is how I did it)
65. Canadian Maritimes (incredibly special places there, more for the people than the landscapes…not that the scenery is bad! Fave spots: Quebec’s Les Iles de la Madeleine, Nova Scotia’s Hall’s Harbour)
66. Cordillera Terraces, Philippines
67. Danang to Hue, Vietnam
68. Gaspe Peninsula, Canada (wild and remote, for sure)
69. Gobi Desert, China/Mongolia
70. Lake District, England
71. Loire Valley, France (did someone say Chateau? Lovely spots; go in off season!)
72. Mendoza Argentina (great wine, friendly town, astonishing nearby Andes scenery)
73. Montenegro (soon, hopefully)
74. North Island, New Zealand
75. Norway’s Coast
76. Piedmont Region, Virginia
77. Rif Mountains, Morocco
78. Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho (spent tons of time there in my youth, still stunning every time I visit)
79. Tuscany (SOON!)
80. Vermont (wow…a whole state?)
    ______________________________________________
    WORLD WONDERS
81. Acropolis, Greece
82. Angkor, Cambodia (soon!)
83. Cyberspace (we’re there now, you know)
84. Easter Island, Chile
85. Fatehpur Sikri, India
86. Great Wall, China (mind boggling place…especially if you can get away from the tourist throngs or see an un re-created portion, I was lucky enough to be among the early independent travellers to China and experienced the Great Wall practically deserted by today’s standards)
87. Karnak, Egypt
88. Keulap, Peru
89. Leptis Magna, Libya (associates say Libya is a great place to travel…little known by most North Americans)
90. Library of Congress, Washington DC
91. Machu Picchu, Peru (soon!)
92. Mesa Verde, Colorado
93. Petra, Jordan (I was lucky enough to visit before tourist masses “found” Petra; but I’m sure it’s still astonishing today)
94. Potola Palace, Tibet
95. Pyramids, Egypt
96. Sagrada Familia, Spain
97. Samarkand and Bukhara, Uzbekistan
98. Terra Cotta Army, Xian, China (unbelievable, and likely way overcrowded and under-protected. See item 86 above)
99. Taj Mahal, India (another spot I was able to experience before massive tourism arrived; in 1994 I practically had the place to myself one afternoon)
100. Vatican City

As of September 1, 2009, anyone with a visa can fly non-stop between Taiwan and Mainland China. I thought I’d live to see the day this would happen, but I always thought Taiwan would become a globally-recognized independent nation before it happened.

Well, surprise surprise…16 airlines are now flying routes between many mainland cities and Taiwan. Having lived in Taiwan during the mid-80s, and being among the very earliest independent tourists into Mainland China, I personally find this whole development dazzling.

In 1987 I hand-carried a letter from an elderly woman in Taiwan to her sister in Beijing. Even mail was somewhat problematic back then. My elderly friends are likely long-gone now, along with most of the Nationalist Chinese who fled to Taiwan in the first place. The younger generation of Taiwanese are increasingly distant from mainland Chinese culture and mores in every way. Even the use of Mandarin, the official language of both Taiwan and China, is gradually giving way to the more popular Taiwanese.

The fact that there is enough demand to fill the current capacity has nothing to do with “reuniting” Chinese families. Anyone who was in that situation has been able to do so for many years. What I think this really means is the Taiwanese have the dollars and interest to play tourist on the mainland, and the mainland Chinese are curious to see how a Chinese society developed outside Communism.

I always encourage people to visit Taiwan. Few Westerners do. It’s not an easy destination–language can be daunting, and it’s crowded and zany. But I DO believe Taiwan is somewhat reflective of what mainland China might actually be like had Mao and his Communist ideology not taken China in 1947. The Taiwanese are delightful, democratic people, the food on their island is superb, and their modern infrastructure is astonishing.

Plus they have the finest collection of Chinese artifacts in the world, their National Palace Museum. Hard to believe, but the Nationalists managed to grab China’s greatest treasures, crate them up, and carry the treasures with them during the long war with the Communists, eventually managing to ship the treasures to Taiwan where they have been lovingly cared for and displayed. China’s likely green with envy, but had they been left behind, the Cultural Revolution may have destroyed them all.

A rambler of a blog post, but important to me. Thanks for reading.

Anyone who knows me well knows that I do not eat fish. I’ve hated it my whole life. I’ve always wished I like it, but just never have enjoyed it. I do eat and love most shellfish, but until last night thought I hated gill-n-fin fish.

What’s that…until last night? You read it here first!

I was invited to dinner at Vancouver’s uber-trendy Coast Restaurant, and while staring at a menu full of fish, one of my dining companions suggested that she just order us several samples. I didn’t quite know what to say. I managed to squeak out, “I’ll eat anything but salmon.” I couldn’t believe my own ears.

But something in my head said, it’s time to get over this ridiculous fear of fish. Yes, you hate salmon, and that’s ok, and trout too, but maybe it’s time to give halibut a chance?

Before I knew it, I was facing an entire evening of fish. It started with fish-and-chip hand rolls ($8) where the fish (Japanese halibut), chips, tartar sauce, and a dollop of tiny orange roe were wrapped in a thin pastry. ROE? ROE? ROE? OMG…that’s the one thing I’m really scared of. Shut up, Randall…take a bite. Voila! An explosion of amazing flavour! I devoured the whole thing and loved every bite.

On to Dungeness crab and mango California rolls ($9). Uh-oh. More roe. Black this time. Plus my arch-enemy seaweed. Into the mouth. Perhaps seaweed and I can become friends after all. In fact, I ate three pieces of this amazing roll.

Then Dungeness crab cakes ($14) — no problem there, I’m a crab fan. Adorable chef Josh Wolfe’s take on this old fave is sheer bliss. In fast-food sizing, I’m fairly sure I was served a quarter-pound of crab, with perfect seasonings and no really noticable binders or breadcrumbs. Just crab, crab, crab. At the same time the waitress dropped off a bowl of calamari ($12), another safe bet for me. She explained they use a bigger, meatier squid, and serve it with smoked garlic aoili. Tender and delicious.

I thought for sure we were done when the waitress showed up with a HUGE piece of grilled B.C. halibut ($25; “caught by Dave Marenyke aboard the Pacific Siren out of the Queen Charlottes,” says the menu). This was the true test. Unmasked fish with just a few gnocchi and wild mushrooms. First bite…hm. Still not 100% comfortable with texture of fish. 2nd bite, ok…not freaking out about it. 3rd bite, YUM.

I’m not likely to race out for cheap fish-n-chips at any old restaurant, but I’m certainly open to trying fish more frequently, and won’t be freaking out over it anymore. And I will be returning to Coast. Bring on the mango California roll: roe, seaweed and all. I’m a convert. Hallelujah.

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Bixi Bikes, a public bike system, are a great way to get around in Montreal, Canada.

I was just in Montreal, (that’s Quebec, Canada, in case you didn’t know). It’s one of the planet’s coolest cities–for so many reasons. Most of its coolness simply comes from a thriving, huge group of citizens who belong to the Creative Class. I mean, name me one other city that has a public performance venue dedicated to circus arts, called La Tohu. (Never mind the fact that Cirque du Solei’s world headquarters is just across the street.)

Meanwhile, those crazy Montrealers have just unveiled the planet’s best public bike system, called Bixi Bikes. I used it several times on my recent trip, and it saved me a ton of money in taxi fares, and tons of time vs. walking.

It works like this: you insert your credit card, and are billed $5. You then choose any bike (they’re all identical and unmistakeable), pull it out of the computerized rack, and ride to your next destination. With nearly 300 stations and 3,000 bikes available, there’s bound to be a station near both ends of your journey.

You have 30 minutes of ride-time before you’re charged additional money; $1.50 for the next 30 minutes. It gets exponentially more expensive after that because the system is designed for quick, point-to-point rides. But if you re-lock your bike, do your business, and then use the same credit card to take a bike again, you get another 30 free minutes. Basically: check out, ride, check in, business, check out, ride, etc. All for $5.

The bikes are not high performance, but do have three gears, a basket, and get the job done. Too cool.

An old friend has requested my advice on “must see” spots in southern Germany, which generally means Bavaria.

Here are my fave tourist attractions near Munich:

• You MUST see Dachau concentration camp (don’t expect to come away smiling).
• Whether or not you’re a beer drinker, you should spend an evening hour at Hofbrauhaus in Munich…just order a pretzel and some juice or something, and enjoy the crazy oompa band and atmosphere. Also, the castle most-everyone visits is Neuschwanstein, you’ve seen it in a zillion postcards. But the more interesting castle is Linderhof.
• I also am a fan of the Berchtesgaden Salt Mines tour.

Mike, a viewer in Vancouver recently wrote:

Hello Randall Enjoyed your appearance on Studio 4. What travel website do you recommend for discount travel airfare for Hawaii and/or Toronto?  There seem to be too many websites to choose from. Thx Mike”

Answer(s):

Toronto: if you need to fly across Canada, there’s not much choice. We basically have an airline duopoly in this country, with WestJet (WS) and Air Canada (AC) controlling the game. On occasion, small players like Sunwing offer Vancouver-Toronto flights. In the east, Porter Airlines is a possibility.

But for travel across most of Canada, it’s AC and WS. Best bet: subscribe to both airlines’ e-mail services, and make sure you read every email they send you–right down to the end. It’s not that time consuming, and it’s where you’ll find their deals.

WestJet Email

Air Canada Email

Also, watch their websites on Wednesday afternoon/evenings — I’ve often found they toss on a sale at that point.

As I mentioned on-air, the AC passes are a very good value right now. Two people can fly round-trip anywhere in Canada for $450 each. Days/times are limited on that offer. Check it out at here.

Hawaii & other International

For Hawaii specifically, I recommend Vancouver travellers keep a close eye on pricing from both YVR and Seattle. Alaska Airlines has been offering round-trip Seattle-Hawaii for abour US$350, which is a good price. However, WestJet has offered it for just over CAD$400 in the past, including taxes/fees. So you just have to do a lot of looking.

One site that can be VERY helpful for this is Kayak.com. Use it. NOTE, however, that it doesn’t always (ever?) check WestJEt. I just did sample pricing for an imaginary trip in October, and found WestJet round-trip YVR-HNL, nonstop for CAD 449.77 on WestJet’s website, while on Kayak the best from Vancouver was US$559 with a stop in Seattle, or $414 nonstop from Seattle. (All amounts are converted to CAD, exchange rates will vary until you lock in your purchase, and fares I found my no longer be available by the time you search. There may be even cheaper flights on other sites, but these are sites I personally have found helpful.)

You can also consider trying to “bid” for flights and prices using Priceline.com.

Alternately, you can use an old-fashioned travel agent! Remember, your time also has a value.

Please comment here on the blog and let me and my readers know what happens with your trip.

For my non-Canadian readers, a mini-primer. Canada (where I live) has only 2 substantial domestic airlines, legacy carrier Air Canada and 10-year-old WestJet. It’s sort of like if the United States only had Continental and Southwest. Air Canada does fly a broad global schedule in addition to covering most of Canada. WestJet flies to many Candian cities in head-to-head competition with Air Canada, as well as to a handful of seasonal U.S. destinations, Mexico, the Caribbean, and Hawaii.

Today, WestJet announced that it is officially the preferred airline of a majority of travelers. According to survey results from Toronto-based Leger Marketing, 49% of Canadians choose WestJet as their fave, while 35% choose Air Canada. Presumably the other 16% chose smaller carriers like hip Porter Airlines or carriers that serve the Arctic, like Air North.

Meanwhile, Air Canada announced that it will begin paying travel agents a 7% commission to sell it’s lowest-fare “Tango” ticket, matching WestJet’s similar annoucement, and effectively admitting that WestJet is running the domestic game.

As regards the survey annoucement, comparing WestJet and Air Canada is odd, unless the survey only asked for respondents’ opinions on travel where the two carriers actually compete. I have to say, I like flying WestJet. In fact, I like it a lot.

But I prefer to fly Air Canada for one reason: their far-superior points program (frequent-flyer miles): Aeroplan. I like that I earn points for distance flown, rather than WestJet’s scheme of points for dollars spent. Sometimes a long-haul ticket is cheaper than a short haul.

Meanwhile, I recently had my first chance to fly Air Canada international, from Toronto to Sao Paulo, Brazil. The overall experience was fine. Outbound flight was a treat as it was only about 30% sold, so everyone got a whole row of seats to sleep on; return was about 98% sold, so in coach we slept sitting up. It was on-par with most other airline’s international service.

I truly wish WestJet would beef up their cross-border schedules, and go into markets Air Canada doesn’t directly serve. Selfishly I wish they flew YVR or YYC – SLC. YVR-DEN also seems sensible, as does YVR-EWR.

What do you think?

Air Canada, in their infinite marketing wisdom, must think we’re all idiots.

Suddenly they’re “guaranteeing” us their “lowest fare.” In an email from Ben Smith
Executive Vice-President and Chief Commercial Officer, they say:

Our Lowest Fare Guarantee, is a unique initiative in the Canadian marketplace that not only ensures you get the lowest Air Canada fare available, but also provides a $50 travel credit for your next trip should you find a lower fare in the same fare brand and on the same flight within 24 hours of your purchase.”

Hmm. If they wanted to truly innovate, they’d make that promise for more than 24 hours. Give us a lowest fare guarantee for 14 days, or 30 days. Prove to us you care about low fares, Air Canada.

And BTW Air Canada, 24-hour price-match is hardly innovative. Some U.S. airlines have been doing similar for some time — in fact, Delta will give you $100, or let you cancel your ticket for a full refund and without a penalty fee on the same day. And the retail world has been doing it even longer. Seems IKEA or Home Depot or Wal-Mart…or even Canadian companies like The Bay, are more-than happy to refund my purchase within about a month. Or to make a price-adjustment if something goes on sale.

Try THAT, Air Canada. Guarantee me the lowest price, period. If I pay $139 for a seat from Vancouver to Calgary, and you later put it on sale for $89 — AND I discover that, allow me to get the lower price. And don’t you DARE think of charging me a service fee to do it.

C’mon.

A friend just recounted some adventures of losing his reliable guidebooks while walking the Caminos of Spain. That brought to mind my early experiences of travel — long before the Internet, and before guidebooks, as we know them, attempted to expose every corner of the planet.

When I first started travelling in Asia, circa 1987, there were very few decent guidebooks, and certainly NONE for China.  I used to travel largely by word-of-mouth. It was different, challenging, and fun. In some ways more interesting than our modern instant-info-for-everything era.

For my first trip into China, my mother and I were some of the very first independent travellers. Tourism there was young, and most people went with organized tours. We got our visas from a shady-looking Hong Kong travel agent, paid him about $10 for 3 pages of mimeographed traveller’s tips, and off we went. I now realize I missed, perhaps, the biggest opportunity of my life. I could have written the first guidebook to China. Oops!

These days among travellers (and I just returned from Brazil, where I talked to LOTS), there is much debate about what guidebook company is best, and the fact that guidebooks put towns and hostels and sites into instant “stardom;” the minute they’re exposed via guidebooks, they run a serious risk of quickly being stripped of charm and character. Luckily, many have held on. Ilha Grande, which I’ll write about shortly, was one of those places.

What experiences have you had with, or without, guidebooks?

Grabbed a cab to go uptown this week. Basically needed to go straight up 8th Ave. Normally would take the subway, but had too much luggage to haul.

Told the cabbie the address, 414 WEST 46th (fabulous hotel, btw),  and off we went. He started up 8th, then when traffic was heavy he turned cross-town. I thought maybe he’d go a couple of blocks and see if things were faster on 6th. Not a big deal.

Well, he kept zig zagging his way across town, and finally I spoke up and said, “where are you going? My destination is the other way.”

“Huh?” He responded. “You want 414 West 46th, right? That’s this way.” He pointed to the east.

Uh, no…it’s that way, said me. He then admitted he gets east and west mixed up. WTF? How did he get a taxi license? I said, “turn the meter off right now.” The meter was at about $13 by then. He was totally apologetic, and said, “I’ll only charge you $8 at the destination,” which is less than the ride should have cost.

Finally got to the hotel, he said, “no charge. I feel so bad.” I handed him $10, and said I hoped his day improved…and “learn your east/west!”

The lesson for you? When traveling, it’s best to have an idea where your destination is in relation to where you start. That way you’ll know if the cab is lost or taking you the “long way.”

In case you’re not already Tweeting (how did you find this blog post, in that case), this video may not make 100% sense. But if you are tweeting, you’ll laugh out loud.

My only criticism? It’s over 3 mintues long. Next time these peeps should limit their videos to 24 seconds. You know, practice what you preach.

Now, be sure you’re following me BOTH the places I Tweet!

Follow me at Twitter.com/Randall_Shirley
Also at Twitter.com/MeetMeOnBoard

Happy Tuesday.

So someone created a bunch of crazy Facebook polls asking for our fave movies, places, restaurants, etc. And I took the bait…wasting 30 minutes.

Or was it a waste? Acutally, pausing to consider my five favorite restaurants was a fascinating exercise. Considering I travel all over the world (and no, I haven’t been everywhere or tried every restaurant), and am often treated to some exquisite and pricey gourmet food, pausing to see which ones popped into my head was quite revealing.

So, here are MY top five, plus a couple of extras:

• Vij’s, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Vikram Vij takes Indian to a whole new place. See my review in Travel+Leisure.
• The Red Iguana, Salt Lake City, Utah, USA. This family-owned Mexican restaurant is in a league of its own: the
  

  Red Iguana Restaurant in Salt Lake City may create the world's best mole sauces.

  Cardenas family makes 6 different mole (pronounced mole-ay) sauces from scratch every day. There’s nothing smothered in tasteless red sauce and jack cheese here! Red Iguana is a rare chance to try the “king” of moles: Mole Negro, made with bananas and served with turkey, or the insanely delicious dish called papadzules, which marries boiled eggs, mole pipian, and mole verde. Often has huge line ups.

• Leo Fu’s Chinese Cuisine,Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Having lived in Taiwan and traveled extensively in China and Hong Kong, I know a thing or two about good Chinese food. I also know it’s very hard to find in North America. Surprisingly, this funky spot next to a John Deere tractor dealership in the middle of the Canadian prairie churns out some of the best Chinese food I’ve ever eaten. It’s consistently delicious, and not-too westernized. Best dishes: salt & pepper chicken, Szechwan shredded pork. 511 70th Avenue SW, Calgary.
• Ajili Mojili, San Juan, Puerto Rico. I “discovered” this true gem from a guidebook many years ago. My then-partner wanted to go to Chilis. I insisted on trying something uniquely local, and have luckily been back several times in the years since. In-the-know locals agree with me, this is one magical spot with brilliant and unique food. Their specialty is called Mofongo, “mashed fried green plantain dough, made with garlic and pork rinds,” and other meats can be added. It’s sooooo good.
• Katz’s Delicatessan,
  

  Corned Beef Sandwich at Katz's Deli, New York. YUM!

  New York City (Lower East Side). This jam-packed eatery is loaded with history and atmosphere. Cured meat sandwiches are the thing: pastrami and corned beef are the dazzlers, hand carved before your eyes when you order at the counter. Sometimes the carver even hands you a sample while you’re waiting. Be warned, the sandwiches are HUGE. Plan to share. Amazing experience; delicious and 100% memorable.

Additional choices (I could go on and on…but here are a few more I’ll rush back to anytime I have the chance)

• Le Clocher Pencher, Quebec City, Quebec, Canada. Funky bistro with some of the best food in Quebec. 203 rue St-Joseph est., 418-640-0597
• Chiz’s Cougar Cave, St. Anthony, Idaho, USA. Very unique Asian-American, friendly, counter service or take out only. Get the Chinese combo plate, or for something truly decadent, try the finger steaks. 246 N 2nd W, (208) 624-7633.
• John’s Pizza, New York City, NY, USA. The only problem with this dazzling pizza is you have to order a whole pie…but
  

  "Asador" Hugo Portillo grills meat to divine perfection at Desnivel in Buenos Aires.

  never mind, I’ve downed one myself. They have multiple locations now, but the Greenwhich Village location is the original (and my preference).

• Desnivel Parrilla, Buenos Aires, Argentina. Possible the best steak of your life. And the least expensive. Defensa 855 (San Telmo), phone 4300-9081
  
• Chives, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. Local is the key word in chef Darren’s amazing cuisine.
• Raincity Grill, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Again, it’s seriously local cuisine…seems everything on the menu grew nearby. Sublime. Pricey. Worth the occasional splurge.

My pals told me there’s a cool ‘real people live here’ vibe. They were right.

I’ve driven by Canmore, AB a hundred times. To me, it’s always been the service town just outside Banff National Park’s gates.Friends told me Canmore has gradually reinvented itself as a destination in its own right with a “real people live here” vibe, so I stopped in and discovered three new fave travel spots, each making the world a little greener.

1. Fab food is at Crazy Weed Kitchen. My burger was perfection, perhaps because both the ketchup and bun were house-made. It’s got a lot fancier food than burgers (like Korean BBQ Alberta beef), too. Yum.

Eco-point: It’s a stunner-of-a-spot, with a living roof covered in regional grasses and flora.

2. While Canmore has a bunch of mid- and high-end accommodations, the surprise was on the cheap end. The Hostel Bear, a renovated hotel, takes budget lodging to a new level of Rocky Mountain chic. Hanging in the lobby and games room I felt like I’d landed in an upscale ski lodge with leather furnishings and a roaring fire. Some rooms have fireplaces, and every room has an ensuite bath (rooms come in dorm quads and more, from an astonishing $25 a night); private rooms are available, too).

Eco-point: Increasing the number of guests in each room, plus the fact that many travellers will reuse their own sheets and towels, makes this place easier on the environment. Nice.

3. Getting around Canmore on bikes is easy—and 10 bucks buys a riding membership at Canmore Community Cruisers, a co-op with bikes stashed in three different “hubs” (storage spaces)—one at a chic downtown tea shop. Or donate two hours volunteer time to pay for membership. Cool.

Eco-point: No gas = no greenhouse gas!

What else I loved: Exploring Canmore Nordic Centre Provincial Park, site of the cross-country and biathlon events at the 1988 Winter Olympics. And wandering along the calm oasis of Policeman’s Creek in the middle of town with the massive Rockies all around…so peaceful.

www.travelalberta.com

NOTE: This story appears courtesy of the Canadian Tourism Commission. You can see much more of my work for them by clicking here.

This is a work in progress! I’ll be adding lots more info about Vancouver in the next few months, since there’s so much interest for visitors with the upcoming Vancouver Winter Olympics (more exactly called Vancouver Olympic Winter Games).

• Vij’s. Amazing Indian food. Possibly the best I’ve ever had…including in India. Wow. No reservations–rich, famous, normal-Joe…doesn’t matter. All wait their turn! Moderately – expensive.
• Banana Leaf, 1096 Denman Street. Amazing Malaysian food. Moderately cheap.
• Pho #1 Vietnamese, 1120 Denman Street. Really good noodle soups. Perfect on a chilly/rainy Vancouver day. Cheap.
• Wild Garlic Bistro, 792 Denman Street. Best brunch value anywhere. Excellent bennies. If the Chinese pork bennie is on the menu, you MUST try it! Owner Sandy Leung has a photographic memory…she never forgets your name or what you like! Moderately cheap brunch, reasonable dinner.
• Ma Dang Coul, 847 Denman Street. Very good Korean. Did someone say dol-sot bibimbap? YUM! Cheap.
• Hot dog guy at Denman on English Bay. Dirt cheap.
• Central, 1072 Denman Street. Excellent bistro fare. Moderate.
• Raincity Grill, 1193 Denman Street. High end. One of my two favourite restaurants in Vancouver. AMAZING use of locally-sourced ingredients. Dazzling views of English Bay. Expensive.
• Cilantro & Jalapeno gourmet Mexican foods, Lonsdale Quay Market, North Vancouver. VERY good mole!! A rare treat in Vancouver’s changing (but still sorely lacking) Mexican food scene. Cheap.
• Dinesty Taiwanese, 8111 Ackroyd Road #160, Richmond. This gem is hard to find, but worth the effort. Best beef noodle soup I’ve had in North America. Stylin’ joint, too. Cheap.
• Chica’s Latin Heritage Foods, 8722 Granville Street (@ 71st), near YVR Int’l Airport. Not the greatest Mexican/Latin American food, but fairly good for Vancouver. A welcome dinner stop after a long flight home!

Yesterday I asked my Twitter followers the following question:

“Polling #PR tweeps? Do any of you actually read your followers, or just post and hope people read you?”

I did this for a couple of reasons:

1. I have a hard time figuring out how to follow my several hundred followers, but I make a valliant effort to frequently scroll through and see what they’re saying. That’s why I follow them, after all.
2. I have a hard time believing that large companies who are on Twitter to promote their organization, and follow several hundred, or thousand, tweeps, actually care what anyone’s tweeting about. I think they’re purely there because they hear social networking is important.

So, the interesting result is this: After about 12 hours,

• 7  PR tweeps had responded. There are waaaay more than that who supposedly “follow” me, likely more than 100.
• Only one of those tweeps hides behind a corporate logo, most of the others (a couple of whom I actually know) are independent PR tweeps.

Here’s what 7  of them said:

• yapta@Randall_Shirley Sure we read. That’s the best part of using Twitter.
• gbender26@Randall_Shirley Good question. I do a combination of both and think @mrtweet is really helpful for finding relevant tweeps in my network.
• GreerTerry@Randall_Shirley Polling #PR Tweeps – YES! I do actually read my followers!
• AmandaSena@Randall_Shirley I always take time to read people’s tweets…granted, I can’t get to all of them, but I do read other postings
• lorihenry@Randall_Shirley I try to keep a balance of both.
• mpaynor@Randall_Shirley Polling #PR I do both – read followers and post. Wonder who just posts?
• OttawaJantine@Randall_Shirley I really do read / scan everybody — but need tips how to do so, as following numbers grow

A challenge to YOU*:

1. Start talking positively about things. If someone asks you your opinion about the economy, tell them it’s up to us–me, you, them–to change it. Then CHANGE it! One dollar at a time.
   
2. Spend some money–buy a vacation or a new coat or even a grande latte at your favorite coffee shop.
   
3. Challenge 10 friends (and your entire Twitter / Facebook list) to do the same.
4. And do it again tomorrow, and the next day, and the next.
5. Let’s use social networking to turn attitudes around! Much of the economy is based on emotions, and fear does nothing to help.
   

I was almost overwhelmed with frustration when reading the front page story of my local newspaper today: “After all the bad news, there’s more bad news.”

A simple question: when will economists—and business/economy journalists—start providing suggestions on how individuals can turn the sinking economy around.

This may be an oversimplification, but it seems to me the minute one U.S. mega-bank failed, the whole world put their wallets away and decided to wait for somebody else (governments, apparently) to spend first. Governments can only do so much. And isn’t it us who are funding them. That eventually brings it back to each individual, no?

Personally, with every dollar I spend these days (and I’m trying very hard to not participate in the recession), I say to myself, “this money helps keep the economy moving. I’m doing my part to turn the ship around.”

Note: While I realize those who have already lost jobs are in desperate circumstances, the majority of North Americans still have our incomes. Only by jolting the economy–and that means spending–can jobs be re-created for everyone.

*I’m no economist or expert, just a guy who’s reasonably smart, and who is fed up with the media’s daily dose of doom. Common sense says it’s up to you and me to turn it around. Join me in trying it?